The 30-60 Hoyt-Clagwell
The un-GREEN one!

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After having spent a lot of time and energy trying to make the old 2009 Algore Edition Green Hybrid Hoyt-Clagwell into something that could actually do some work, I finally decided to trash the green thing and go with a plain old mechanical belt drive to the transaxle.

In the scheme of things, one finally comes to the realization that "hybrid" is anything but efficient.  First, there's the generator loss then add the motor loss and you've got something that has more losses than belts.  I think the "hybrid" cars of today are simply a marketing ploy to sell "green".  I've got a VW Jetta TDI Diesel that beats the pants off of a Prius in fuel mileage, getting over 20% more mileage than the hybrid.

The plan is to remove the alternator, the electric motor and controller, leaving the "Plough By Wire" steering.  I had a spare serpentine belt for our Dodge (Mercedes) Sprinter 5-cylinder Diesel engine and it works out to be almost perfect, so pulleys will be made and a "loose belt" clutch will be designed.

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16 May 2012:
The following is what has been done to date.


Turning the O.D. of one idler pulley.

The idler pulleys are made from the cast iron removed from the flywheel of the 30-60 engine.  They were first turned round then bored for ball bearings.



Sawing off the drive pulley blanks.

Facing the first blank.

The drive pulleys are a bit more complex because the serpentine belt has six grooves in it and these must be reversed and machined into the drive surface of the pulleys.  The stock used here is the remainder of the length of malleable iron I used to make the head for Engine Number Four.  If I don't mess anything up, it will be just enough to do the job.

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17 May 2012:It took all day but I did get the transmission and jackshaft pulleys done.


Blank, faced one side and bored for pilot.

Blank in lathe, turning O.D.

Turning main diameter.

After facing the first blank, and while it was still rough-centered in the 4-jaw chuck, it was drilled and bored for a pilot shaft, sized for a slip fit.  The blank and shaft assembly was chucked-up in the lathe and the O.D. was turned.  After turning the O.D. the major diameter was turned.  The hard part was turning the grooves for the serpentine belt.



Turning grooves for belt.

Semi-finished pulley.

I ground a tool bit until it was about 0.030" wide and cut the 0.100" wide grooves 0.050" deep.  This took a long time.  Because of chattering, the tool could only be plunged very slowly.  Once the proper depth was reached, the tool was traversed left and right to properly position the grooves.  After filing off the burrs, I checked the pulleys for belt fit and it is good to go.

The pulleys still have to be faced to the proper thickness and I will do that once I have the final positioning worked out.  The transmission pulley will use the tapered and keyed pulley hub that was originally used on the tractor.  The pulley at the other end of the belt will be joined-up with the driven vee belt pulley into a jackshaft.  One of the two smaller pulleys shown in the photo (above right) will be used as a tensioner and the other one will be an idler.

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19 May 2012: The transmission end pulley is now done.


Transmission side of pulley.

Transmission shaft adapter mounted.

Opposite side of pulley.

Pulley mounted on transmission.

The original input for the transmission was via vee belt.  When I built the Algore Edition Green Hybrid Hoyt-Clagwell, I turned the pulley off of the hub and mounted a roller chain sprocket.  The same hub is used for the 30\-60 Hoyt-Clagwell.  The only modification I made to the hub was to drill it and the pulley for six 10-32 machine screws.  The screws are centered on the joint between the hub and the pulley.  The hub also had a pilot which I bored the pulley for a light press fit in order to keep everything running true.  The reason I'm using the original hub and not making another one is that the transmission input shaft is tapered with a key and I didn't want to have to match the taper.  The keyway would have been a problem, too.

The last thing I did to the pulley was to reverse it in the chuck and remove some metal from the side opposite the transmission for lightness.  The sucker's still heavy, though.  I believe I may need a clutch brake to get everything to stop within a reasonable amount of time.  Otherwise, I get folks telling me to "grind off a pound for me" when I put it into gear.

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22 May 2012:The "jackshaft" is done.




The "Jackshaft assembly.

Most of my time today was speng making chips!  The mount for the bearings started out being a piece of steel about 3" X 5" and 1-1/2" thick.  It ended up being the cylindrical piece 2.75" in diameter and 7/8" thick.  I use what I have.  I didn't really need the keyway in the shaft and the key but decided it would look better with a key in the vee belt pulley.

Tomorrow, I'm going to clamp-up the jackshaft pulleys to the frame to check how the belt will lay and the positioning of the jackshaft, idler and tensioner pulleys.

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23 May 2012:

I think I've got the serpentine belt worked out.


Jackshaft mounted.

Tensioner and idler at transmission end.

Vee belt located.

Serpentine belt being serpentine.

I clamped the front serpentine pulley to the frame and loosely hooked up the vee belt parts.  This gave me the location of the jackshaft.  After bolting down the jackshaft, I located the front idler pulley, made a stub shaft and mounted it.

The transmission end was more complicated.  First, I temporarily located the rear idler then worked out the location of the tensioner.  The tensioner can be seen as the flanged idler in the center photo.  I made a mounting stub for the tensioner that uses a  7/16" mounting bolt.  The frame end of the mounting stub is drilled and tapped about 3/4" eccentric so the stub can be rotated to tighten or loosen the belt.  The bottom idler takes up the balance of the slack.  I may have to modify the tensioner to have a spring in order to take up for heat/cold issues with the belt.  We'll see how it works before bothering with that.

Next is locating and mounting the vee belt tensioner/clutch.  I have to use a pedal for the clutch because, in a sticky driving situation, I could run out of hands.  The clutch pedal will be located on the left side with some monkey-motion linkage to the tensioner/clutch.  I'm also going to initially forego a clutch brake in case I can get away without it.  If I do need a clutch brake, I think I can simply make a plastic puck to ride on the back of the serpentine belt as it passes over the pulley.

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24 May 2012:Another slow day.  I got the crankshaft shaft extension made and mounted the crankshaft pulley and have started on the clutch belt tensioner..


Vee belt pulleys mounted and clutch arm made.

The crankshaft extension is made from a piece of 1.5" bar stock.  One end of the extension was left 1.5" and the other was turned to 1.0" O.D., the same as the crankshaft so the crank will work.  The 1.5:" end of the extension was bored to 1.0" to slip over the crankshaft.  The pulley was bored to 1.5" and the extension was pressed into the pulley.  A hole was drilled and tapped through the pulley at an angle so a setscrew could be tightened into the keyway in the crankshaft. after making sure everything fits properly, I will remove the extension, clean it and give it a dose of thread-locking Loktite to make sure it doesn't wander.

If you look closely at the end of the extension, you will see that I've drilled through into the crankshaft bore and tapped it for a 3/8" bolt.  This bolt can be screwed into the extension to push it off of the crankshaft.

A location was chosen on the frame that didn't interfere with the mixer or any water lines and a 1/2:" hole was drilled through both frame rails for a piece of 1/2" shafting.  A piece of electrical tubing was squashed and drilled so one end could be welded to the shaft and the other could mount a ball bearing which will be the clutch idler.

That's as far as I've gotten today.  The other end of the clutch shaft will have a bell crank that will link up with the clutch pedal (not made  yet).

I've got some 3/4" wide X 1/8" thick flat wire I'll bend so it fits around the front half of the lower pulley then up and around half of the upper pulley.  This will be spaced about 1/4" from the belt when it is tight.  When the clutch is depressed, the guide will allow the belt to have clearance to the pulleys.  It may also act sort of like a clutch brake.

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27 May 2012:The last couple of days has been spent getting the clutch linkage lined-up.  Today, I think I've got it to where it will work.  No photos because of cramped space.  Tomorrow, if I can manage to get the electrics hooked back up and get the engine to run, I will see how the clutch works.  I've got great hopes for more horsepower at the wheels after ditching ol' Algore.

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28 May 2012:
Today was another good news/bad news day.  The good news is that the Non-Algore, Non-Green, Non-Hybrid Hoyt-Clagwell performs a world better as a straight mechanical drive, justifying my criticism of "Green" stuff.

The bad news is that, although I got the clutch pedal and linkage hooked-up and it did what it was supposed to do, the belt didn't cooperate and wouldn't slip when the tension was released.  At first I thought the belt just needed to be run some to get the coating off of the friction surfaces and wear the paint off of the pulleys.  Not so.  The only way I could get the tractor into gear was to push it off and then engage the gear.  Once moving, I could shift gears (sort-of).  I drove it around the neighborhood with the clutch depressed and the belt refused to slip.  Finally, when trying to force it to slip, it twisted, rolled off the pulley and jammed between the clutch arm and the driven pulley, cutting it pretty severely.


Clutch pedal and adjustable linkage.

Clutch idler with spring in place.

Damaged belt.

When the belt rolled over and jammed, everything came to a swift halt.  It's good the "event" occured right in front of my driveway or I would have had to push it for a greater distance.  As you can see in the right-hand photo, the belt really got trashed.  What I'm going to do is replace the B-width belt with an A-width belt.  The A belt will run lower in the pulleys (they're designed for either belt) and may behave.  I'll also go ahead and make the belt guide which will probably keep the belt from rolling off the pulleys.

Just a note on the performance.  I copied the belt ratios of The Mighty Hoyt-Clagwell 54/75 which uses the same transaxle and tire size.  I think in a speed contest, the Non-Algore Hoyt-Clagwell 30/60 would win unless a slight rise was encountered at which time, it would fall on it's face and I'd have to go to a lower gear.  The reason it runs faster is that the Hoyt-Clagwell 30/60 engine was running at about 650 RPM.  The maximum RPM on the "Mighty's" Fairbanks-Morse ZC52 is about 500 RPM.

If all else fails and I have to resort to something like a flat belt primary drive, I can then make the primary pulley ratio closer to 1:1 which will slow the tractor a bit and will give it better high/high range gear performance.

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31 May 2012:The A-section belt arrived yesterday.  In the meantime, I re-made the idler arm and idler.  


The new idler arm, idler wheel and belt guide.

The arm is now long enough so the idler hits the belt at about the midpoint between the pulleys.  I didn't like the narrow idler created by the outer race of the bearing so I made a  press-on aluminum idler that is about twice as wide.  I also made a belt guide to hang on to the outside of the belt to force the ends away from the pulleys when it's loose.  

I pushed the tractor outside and fired it up to check the clutch.  It releases just fine now.  No clutch brake needed.  The only problem is that it's really fierce and engages with a bang.  That is not acceptable so I'll have to work on it.  My first impression of the problem is that the belt guide is too close to the belt.  Next time I'm out in the shop, I'll dismount it and temporarily move it away about a half-inch to see if that makes it engage more smoothly.

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4 June 2012:
Well, after adding a second compression ring to the engine (seems better) I removed the belt guide and the clutch was still VERY fierce.  Finally, today, I got the bright idea to try to make the vees of the belt a bit less "sticky".  I first thought of using talcum powder but, since it's a mineral, I thought it might embed in the rubber and be difficult to remove if it made the belt slip too much.  I ended up using corn starch.

After coating the belt with the corn starch and replacing it, I pushed the tractor outside and gave it a try.  It does work better but is still quite abrupt.  I may try giving the belt another coat of starch after I fix the broken engine valve spring.  Refer to the 30-60 page for details.

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8 June 2012:
Here's the latest movie, done at 720p High Definition:


A lot better, eh?
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11 June 2012:
Since the tractor is now running acceptably, I'm going to go ahead and make the smokestack.  The plan is to make it so the present radiator will fit inside of the housing.  I'll leave the bottom open so air can flow upward.  If the engine tends to run hot, I can always add baffles to direct the airflow from the bottom, through the radiator core and then out the top.


I'll have the sides cut by a sheet metal shop and have the top and chimney made by the shop.  Then, I'll make a welded-up framework of 3/4" angle iron to mount the panels and top on.  The top will be hinged so I can get to the radiator cap.

At least, that's the plan as of right now.  Things may change once I find out how much the sheet metal shop's gonna charge for the panels and top.

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23 June 2012:
I've got the sheet metal for the stack shopped-out and it should be done by the end of next week.  The cost was higher than I figured it would be so I had to resort to the 'ol junkpile for the steel to make the framework.  What I came up with was some pieces of 1-1/2 X 1/8 channel I removed from some old store fixtures about 25 years ago.  It's been sitting around in a damp shed for a while so it's kinda grungy but it will do.


Steel for stack framework.


Ends being welded.

Stack frame all in one piece.

I cut the bases so the corners wouldn't be open.  My welding leaves something to be desired.  I think some of the sloppiness is due to changing from carbon dioxide mix gas to straight argon. The beads just don't seem to want to lay flat.  

It'll get a once-over with the disc sander then I'll give it a coat of paint.  Since I have a couple of cans of flat black barbeque paint on the shelf, I think that's going to be the color. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

26 June 2012:The stack frame is sanded and primed with black paint where it will show.  Now, I'm just sort of waiting for paint to dry.


Exhaust pipes done.

The exhaust pipes are welded-up and my ugly welds have been filed-down 'til they are almost invisible.  Here's another case of waiting for the paint to dry.

Last week, when driving around the neighborhood, I found that the top gear (third gear, high range) was just about more than the engine can pull.  On a slight downhill or a dead level paved road, it could just hold it's own but if the slightest upgrade appears, it had to be shifted to second gear, high range.  In actuality, the road speed is just a bit too fast for comfort anyway, so I think some adjustment is in order.I've been thinking of belting ratios and may try making a different driven clutch pulley.  This new pulley would have a slightly larger effective diameter and would not engage the vee of the belt but would let the bottom of the belt bear on it.  This should allow it to slip easier.  I'm still thinking about that one.

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27 June 2012:After thinking about the clutch pulley last night, I rooted around in the junk box and selected a piece of 1-1/4" thick steel that I cut to 3" X 3".  I chucked it up and bored a center hole then turned it to a round that is just a little under 3".




New clutch driven pulley.

I then drilled the eight holes to mount it to the serpentine belt pulley, broached a keyway and mounted the whole thing on the tractor.  After some fiddling with the clutch linkage, I took it out for a test spin.  Although the belt squeals when it is engaging, the clutch is smooth and not as fierce.  Put another one in the success column.

Oh, yes - changing the pulley has changed the ratio to one that allows the engine to pull the tractor more easily in top gear.

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30 June 2012:
I picked up the stack parts and have nearly finished it.


Panels for stack.

Top of stack.

Nearly completed stack.

I still have to sand the primer on the top and figure out a mounting method that allows it to be removed to check the radiator water level.  I've got a printout of "Hoyt Clagwell" that I'm going to have to figure out how to transfer to the front of the stack.  I may just end-up taping the printout to the panel and going over it with a ball point pen to transfer the outline to the panel.  Then, I can try my hand at painting inside the outline.  

It'll be interesting to see how well the radiator works inside the stack.  If necessary, I can make up some baffles to direct air from the bottom, through the radiator and then up to the top of the stack.  Presently, when working it hard, the water temperature only gets  up to about 160, so I may be all right.


Now, I want to hear what it sounds like with the stack in place.  Maybe tomorrow........

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1 July 2012:
I'm waiting for paint to dry.  I finished priming and sanding the stack and got a coat of paint on it.  While waiting for paint to dry, I lettered the "Hoyt Clagwell" sign on the front panel.


Printout taped to panel.

Outline of printout.

Painted sign.

I know the lettering is really poor but what do you expect from our resident sign painter, Harley "Shakey" Fergusson.  

I used an old banner making program to make the sign and printed it as big as it would print.  Then, I taped the sign to the front panel.  Taking a ballpoint pen, I drew around the lettering to leave an outline in the paint.  Then, 'ol Shakey painted inside the lines.

I think the paint will be dry enough to roll the tractor out and see what it sounds like.

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2 July 2012:
I think it's about ready for prime time now.


The 30-60 Hoyt-Clagwell

It's running better every day.  I suppose that's because the rings and bearings are seating.  Also, this morning, I lowered the float level in the mixer by about 0.040" (1.016mm).  This seemed to correct a real touchy needle valve adjustment.  Before, it was either too rich or too lean.  Now, I can dial it in easily.

I ran it for about an hour and a half today with the stack (did I mention that it's HOT out there!), about as long as I wanted to be in the heat.  After the run, which seemed to be long enough for the temperature to stabilize, the thermometer in the line from the top of the water jacket showed just a shade over 180F (82C).  Since the thermometer reads a little low because, I think, the brass housing radiates some of the heat, I stuck a thermocouple into the top tank of the radiator and it read 205F (96C).  I'm not too concerned about it because the engine was running fine at that temperature.  It showed no signs of steam bubbles so when I change the coolant (now plain water) to a 20% antifreeze mix to retard rust formation, that will raise the boiling point a bit.

I may tape some paper baffles in place sometime and see if it runs cooler but that's not a top priority at this point.

Did I mention it's
HOT out there!

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3 July 2012:
I tried the baffles inside the stack to see if the engine would run cooler.


Temporary baffles for radiator.

I ran the tractor under load for about an hour and a half and the temperature was about 200F (93C).  This is not a big difference so I think I'll simply remove the baffles and go as before.  After checking the temperature after the run, I idled the engine for about 15 minutes and took it's temperature again.  This time, the temperature was about 185F (85C).  I think it'll be fine.  Tomorrow, I'll flush the cooling system and add antifreeze.

I also made a speed control handle that pushes up on the governor spring.  The engine makes more power at about 750 RPM but runs nicer at about 400 RPM.  This lever allows me to change speed without having to fiddle with the governor.

I've made another movie of the tractor.


Slick, eh?

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11 July 2012:Whilst testing the tractor and engine modifications, the electronic "plough-by-wire" system started getting flakey.  After working on it, I figured that I really didn't like that method of aiming the vehicle so am now making a mechanical steering gear.  Also, without the "Green Hybrid" garbage to power, there was no need for a lawnmower battery.  All I will need without the plough-by-wire steering is a small 1.2 amp hour gel cell to power the ignition and no on-board charging system.

Here's what I have to start out with.


Raw materials for the steering gear.

It so happens that I've got a couple of "surplus" garage door openers that have a neat worm drive.  The gear is 2-3/4" in diameter and goes in the right direction.  With some selected pieces out of my steel scrap and the old bearings from the door openers, I think I can have a nice steering gear box.  Now, I've got to get busy with my CAD to draw-up the parts.

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12 July 2012:
I've made a couple of changes to the design of the gearbox.  I made the ends out of 0.312" steel rather than the 0.125".  I figure that the box should be a bit stiffer with that thickness of steel.


Some of the parts and the drawing.

When I started laying out the 0.625" thick aluminum, I found that I just barely had enough to do the parts.  One of the pieces will have a corner cut-off due to previous milling on the original part the casting was made into.  I'm going to use the bushings that came with the garage door opener.  The end of the shaft opposite of the input to the worm has a thrust adjuster to take-up end slack in that gear.  The larger gear will be a fit to the case and will have no end play.  If I need to give it a little clearance, I can always use gaskets on one or both ends.

I had to use actual measurements to find the center distance between the gears for proper mesh.  If the mesh is wrong, I can always drill-out the bolt holes in the steel plates to be able to move the big gear a bit in relation to the worm.

I will need to look for (or build) at least one universal joint between the gearbox and the steering wheel.  I'll probably make the steering wheel out of plywood with a metal hub epoxied-in.

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15 July 2012:
Back at it.  The gear case is coming along.


Gear case so far.

The center section, which holds the worm gear will be sandwiched between the front and back covers that hold the gear.  The rear cover is threaded 8-32 and machine screws go through the front cover and the center section and thread into the rear cover.  The clearance holes in the center section are oversized so the mesh of the gears can be adjusted for minimum backlash.

The bushings with integral thrust surfaces are from the garage door openers and, except for the thrust end of the worm, are Locktited into the housing.  The bushing on the thrust end of the worm shaft is a slip fit and can be moved to eliminate any end play in the worm.

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16 July 2012:
The gearbox is finished.


Worm gear ready for assembly.

Worm gear assembled.

Assembled gearbox.

I could be happier with how the gearbox turned out.  After I put it together, I couldn't quite get the backlash to zero.  Since I already had it packed with grease, I decided to leave it the way it is and, if it's a real pain to steer (it now has about 1/16 turn of slack), I can always take it apart and re-drill the through holes larger so the ends can be shifted upward toward the worm.

The steering column (as of now) will be a piece of 3/4" shafting.  I've drilled the end of the shaft to 1/2" so it will slip over the input shaft of the gearbox.  I've sawed a slot in the end of the steering column and am making a clamp to secure it to the input shaft.

Locating the gearbox is going to be one of those cut-and-try operations.  I'll be removing the dash panel to allow the steering wheel to be in a good location.  The ignition part of the dash will be retained and a smaller housing will be made for it.

Steering wheel?  I dunno.  Maybe I'll make one out of plywood.

Now.........where should I put the cup holder????

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17 July 2012:
Moving along slowly, I now have the steering gearbox mounted and the pitman arm made.


Steering bearbox mounted.

I've removed the "dash" so there will be room for the steering column.  The bracket for the gearbox was made from a piece of angle iron, mitered and welded to have the correct angle for the steering column.  Tomorrow, the drag link gets made and, maybe the steering column brace and bushing.

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18 July 2012:
A little more got done today.


Steering column brace and top bearing.

Loooooooong drag link.

A couple of pieces of angle iron and a little lathe work plus a bushing out of something or other have the steering almost ready for the steering wheel.  The drag link is made of a piece of 1/2-13 all-thread left over from a seawall backstay replacement.  I turned the ends to accept the fittings that were on either end of the "plough-by-wire" drag link.  A keyway was cut in the top end of the steering column.  The steering wheel hub has a keyway broached in it and a gib key will be used to hold the wheel on.

The steering wheel (at least for now) is being made from a 3/4" wood drawer front that was lying around.  The finished diameter will be around 9 inches.  It's a little small but I think it will be easy enough to steer with.  Presently, the rough-shaped circle has the hub in place and the epoxy is curing.  Tomorrow, I will mount the wheel in the mill and turn the O.D., probably using either a die grinder or my small belt sander.  Sawdust city!

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19 July 2012:
Here's the unfinished steering wheel.


Steering Wheel obviously before the finishing touches.

Test fit - just misses the gearshift.

Classy, eh?  

Then, there was the matter of the clutch linkage chattering when the clutch was engaged.  This was traced to the clutch spring allowing the idler to move as it rode on the belt.  


Clutch linkage "anti-chatterer".

The "fix" is a block mounted over the clutch arm pivot that keeps some tension on the clutch idler when the clutch is engaged.  I won't know if it works until the next test runs.

Then, I finished the steering wheel.


The Hoyt-Clagwell exclusive steering wheel grinding machine.

The finished steering wheel in place.

To finish the steering wheel, I clamped the belt sander on the mill table.  Voila'.  The Hoyt-Clagwell steering wheel grinding machine!  It took about an hour but spinning the wheel in the mill and sanding it seems to have worked like a champ.  Given a coat of polyurethane, the wheel is finished.

With the elimination of the Plough By Wire steering system, I guess I can now state that the Hoyt Clagwell 30-60 is officially NON-GREEN.


When I get back to the project after a while, I will work on the governor latches.  I think I've figured out how to make them work better.

Then, it's going to the Hoyt-Clagwell test track for the high-speed steering tests.

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21 July 2012:
I went ahead and did the road tests.  Of course, I warned all dogs, children and old people to beware as I flew through the test routine.  Fortunately no one was injured and damage from the acoustic shock waves was held to a minimum.

It ain't gonna win the Indy 500 but the steering is pretty good for a cobble job.

I ran the tractor for about two hours today and, since it's HOT out there, I ran it with the spark retarded to see how hot the engine would get.  After the run, a thermocouple in the top tank of the radiator indicated 192 degrees F (89 C) and measuring the head temperature with the thermocouple down beside a spark plug, I got 270 degrees F (132 C).  

I'm not really concerned about the head temperature because after I idled the engine and advanced the spark, the head temperature very slowly fell a few degrees.  Since the head has no cooling passages in it, this can be considered normal.  As a matter of fact, due to the spark plug locations, the high temperature of the head helps to keep them from fouling although I did have to clean one of the new plugs today early-on.  It was very oil fouled, probably due to having the tractor nose-high (cylinders down) for a couple of days while working on the steering.

The clutch anti-rattler works passably well.  There is still a slight rattle but it's tolerable.

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22 July 2012:
Today, I added a little "custom" touch.  I made a solid aluminum shift knob.  A BIG shift knob.


The custom shift knob.

I suppose country songwriter and performer C.W. McCall would be proud of this shift knob.  The "genuine chrome plated shift knob" that came off in the hand of Earl, the truck driver in the record "Wolf Creek Pass" wasn't manufactured by Hoyt-Clagwell & Company.  This one is guar-an-teed to not come off!  You can get a good grip on it because it's 2-1/2" in diameter!

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20 August 2012:
There's enough belt drag to make the engine hard to start when the clutch is engaged.  Up to today, I've simply used a piece of 2 X 2 wood with a notch in each end to prop the clutch pedal against the foot rest in order to keep it disengaged.  That meant every time I went to start the engine, I had to dig in the box, find the stick and then prop the clutch with it.

Engineering excellence shows again here at Hoyt-Clagwell & Company!


Clutch in normal engaged position.

Clutch held disengaged.

It didn't take much to make the device.  When the clutch pedal is depressed, the arm is manually swung 90 degrees clockwise so the bolt is perpendicular to the clutch link arm.  When the pedal is released, the arm stays in place until the clutch pedal is depressed a little more, when the "handle" of the device uses gravity to swing to the near vertical position, moving the bolt away from the link arm.

Works like a champ!

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13 December 2012: I've been having lots of fun lately.  Went to a couple of shows and it appears to run better and better although it still gets a notion to really smoke up the joint. While I was at the North Florida early winter show in Starke, I found something I just couldn't resist.  Even with the bumper sticker that says "Horn broke, watch for finger", folks weren't payin' attention.  Now, I think I'll get their attention.  On the air compressor, the horn is REALLY LOUD!!!


The start of the safety device.

The horns will get air from a hand pump (I hope).  I'm using some stuff from the junkpile and some new stuff like the 1/2" round bar stock to make the pump.  The brass cylinder is a piece of the brass pipe I got at the scrapyard a couple of years ago.  The aluminum rounds are for the top and piston and are what's left over from other projects.




Cylinder, piston and rod.

The inlet valve is the rubber disc on the bottom of the piston.  There are four holes drilled through the piston to the upper side.  I will drill some radial holes around the top of the cylinder to let air in.  An outlet valve most likely won't be needed because the reeds in the horm will keep air from sucking back.

I'll make the bottom (mounting) plate and cobble up a handle then hook it up and see if I can push the piston down hard enough to make the horn blow.  If it takes too much force, I may try pushing it with my foot.  If that doesn't work, I'll have to come up with a lever arrangement.  We'll see.

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Yes, I'm still having fun!


If you see anything I'm doing wrong, you can email me at:  [email protected]  That doesn't mean that I will follow your advice though, heh, heh.

[email protected]

Hits since 17 May 2012